Thursday 4th August. By Jodie.
Our 18 day kayaking excursion has been very much about the glaciers, each one unique and amazing. Some can be both intimidating and beautiful.
We are camping right up in Tarr Inlet opposite Margerie glacier. It’s particularly active, every few minutes we hear it crashing and sometimes we see pieces calving off. This causes the water to surge, and waves to wash up the beach. Our campsite is on a tiny beach and there’s just enough space for our tent above the high tide line. We’re worried because tonight’s tide will be especially high, and if Margerie creates a big surge at high tide… will we get swamped? We set the alarm for 2.30am, 1 hour before high tide, so we can be ready if we hear a loud crash from the glacier.
Johns Hopkins glacier is the only one we see that is advancing. Most are receding and thinning. This one has a flow rate of 10-15 feet per day. We’re paddling slowly towards it, through chunks of ice. The ice is getting denser and we decide to stop. We just sit in our kayaks for a while. It’s still, peaceful, beautiful. The sun emerges and adds a sparkle to the floating ice. We stay longer, just enjoying this moment. It feels like our whole journey so far has been to come to this place.